Showing posts with label tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tips. Show all posts

Saturday, 15 February 2014

How to shop in charity shops, thrift stores and garage sales! BIG GUIDE!

"A charity shopthrift shopthrift storehospice shop (U.S., Canada), resale shop (when not meaning consignment shop U.S.) or op shop(Australia/N.Z.) (from "opportunity shop") is a retail establishment run by a charitable organization to raise money." (Wikipedia)


Inspiring shop window at local Charity Shop :)

This is my guide to better shopping in thrift/ charity stores :)

I am myself a passionate charity store and garage sale shopper and I have made many adorable finds for pennies.
I adore Vintage, since a lot of the craftsmanship and sheer hard work put into Vintage clothing items has been lost due to the need of producing more clothes for less money.

My mum started taking me to Charity shops when I was 6, due to the fact that she was a student with little money to support two children, so in order to make the most of what we had, second hand clothing and items was a way to make the money stretch.
She taught me how to search effectively after items of interest, and also about fabrics, sewing and quality! Now, even though I have plenty of money, I still enjoy shopping in thrift stores, since the quality of Vintage items are so far superior to newly made (for a fraction of the price!).

Loppisfynd in Västerås is a huge attraction

In Sweden, shopping Second Hand items on auction, garage sale, thrift store and in the charity shop is a peoples movement! We call it "Loppis" -  Everyone does it, no matter if they are rich or poor. It's even rather trendy to own second hand - since it can stand for an expression of individuality and it is environmental-friendly. If you buy something in a charity shop, the money has an ethical dimension to it as well - since many charity shops are run by non-profit organisations that have welfare projects.

This guide is a concentrated fact sheet from more than 20 years of Second Hand-shopping experiences.
This post is a more general post, useful for everyone, and I'm in the process of writing a post about second-hand shopping that is more Lolita-specific! (I'll insert the link here when I've written it ;)

How do you shop effectively in thrift stores?
 Shopping in Charity Shops is an elegant sport :)
It is the ability to rummage and sieve effectively through heaps of garbage to find one or two items that you really like and need.
It is nothing like going to an ordinary store.

If you only ever been to ordinary clothing shops before, you will probably be baffled by the mass of odd-looking, battered items.

Don't be fooled :)
Actually, when you've learned the art of thrift store shopping, you will shop more effectively in boutique stores as well!

How is the Charity shop organised?
Well, this depends on the shop, of course. Some countries like Sweden and England have an amazing variety of thrift- and vintage stores, either run by profit-companies or charity organisations. The shops run by charity organisations tend to have the best prices, and the ability to do amazing finds. The profit-companies (boutique vintage stores) may have more of what you actually want, but to a larger cost.

Often however, since every item in a store is unique - most stores choose to display their items based on type of item (i.e. skirts) or on colour. In Sweden, Charity shops do display items according to season, meaning that it will be hard to find a winter coat in the middle of the summer. Some charity shops have occasional sales, where cheap items are sold for even less! :)

All coats 50% sales!

So how to do it!
For the Charity Shop-newbie: keep in mind that not only must you find something you like, you have to find it in your size as well!
Compared to a department store or boutique, where you are able to try different sizes of the same item, this is now not possible, since there is only one of every item!
Don't buy anything that doesn't fit you, unless you know for sure that you are willing to do the alterations. But even if the tag says it is not your size, and you like the item - try it on! ^^ You will be surprised how often the tag says one size, but the garment actually is another size!

So I use this simple 4 step procedure when shopping:

1) -> 2) -> 3) ->4)

1) Finding something you like
I am very methodological when I shop at charity shops. I look at EVERY item on the rack, briefly (colour, material, brand- and size-label), and if something catches my attention (it is the right colour, the right brand, the material is lovely, etc), I pick it out and look at it properly. If it didn't meet my expectations, I hang it back, but if I liked it I bring it along to "the mirror test" (step 2).
I usually end up with >20 items hanging on my arm (often rather heavy ;) when I'm done with the first screening.

2) The mirror test
My second step is to go to a mirror in the shop. I put the items in a pile next to me, than I hold up every item against the mirror and I see if it will fit, if the colour is OK against my skin, etc. The items that don't pass the mirror test, I hang back - and the items I like, I bring to the dressing room! (Step 3 :)

3) Do the clothes fit?
Now I'm in the dressing room, trying on every item. I look at the quality of the fabric, how much wear the item has, how the fabric feels against my skin, can I move properly in the item? I also look at the washing label and ask myself if I can take care of the item properly.

4) Last screening
Now I look on the pile of items that I have (maybe 3-5 pieces) and I ask myself the following 5 questions:

> Is the price reasonable? <
> Do I need this item? <
> Can I easily coordinate this item with other items in my closet? <
> How many times will I use this item? <
> Can I afford it? <

If the items past these questions, I buy it!!! :D

 I have made 3 simple rules and 3 DONT'S to keep in mind when shopping. 
I find them very handy:

1) Decide what you NEED
To plan ahead, much like going to the grocery store with a list, will keep you on the right course. If you need a sweater, you can concentrate on ONLY looking through the sweater section, instead of looking through the entire store, which is a great time-saver.

2) Materials, washing instructions, wear and tear matters!
 Get the know-how
Feel, Look, Compare!


Pure silk blouse that unfortunately has been mistreated by washing in to high temperature. You can feel the difference - silk should be soft at touch, but if you have mistreated the fabric, the item becomes stiff, like paper. Learn to know how pure silk feels!

...Feel...
When shopping, touch the material! Feel how it feels between you fingers - take time to learn how real silk feels, how new wool feels like - how you can differ between linen and cotton... Or how soft true Merino wool is!
(and read the labels. 5% Merino wool is NOT the same as 100% Merino :).
...Look... 
Look at the fabric! 
Is it all creased? Then it will probably stay creased unless you iron it after every washing - ask yourself if it is worth it!
Are there stains? Don't buy it (no matter how cheap it is ;). Unless you are absolutely sure that you can do something about it or you really don't care.
Look at the ends of the sleeves and/or hems! 
Is there significant wear? Don't buy it! There is no point in buying clothes that only will make you look scruffy!
 Especially for stretchy tops, look if there are a lot of pilling - again, it doesn't matter how "great" that sweater is - if it looks scruffy - you will look scruffy!
Now look at the washing instructions! Are you willing to take this item to the Laundry Service after every use? Or would you rather have an item that is more easy to care for?


...Compare...
What I like with charity store shopping is that you can directly compare the quality of the items in-store! If you shop from H&M it is hard to, in the store, tell the quality of the fabric - because everything looks the same... But in a thrift store, you can easily just bring out your sweater of choice and DIRECTLY compare it to inferior/superior quality items ON THE RACK :)
This will help you when choosing what item you will buy!

Can you guess which shirt has the better quality? ;)
Answer at the bottom of the page!

3) Visit the store often!
To visit the same store often gives you an advantage, because you will not miss the re-fills, sales and you will learn more what items are abundant and what items are sold more quickly.
If you are nice to the staff, maybe they can tell which days in the week they get refill-shipments :)

So with this said, remember these key DON'TS:
(and no rules without exceptions ;)

1) Do not buy anything that looks scruffy
UNLESS
you doubtlessly KNOW that you can do something about it.

2) Do not but anything that doesn't fit you
UNLESS
you are prepared to really put the time in to making alterings!

3) Do not buy anything of inferior quality
UNLESS
you are only going to wear them for a day for a masquerade or something similar :)

All in all, this is the 
TAKE HOME MESSAGE:

4 steps procedure when shopping:

1) Methodological search
2) Mirror test
3) Try the item in the dressing room
4) Answer truthfully these 5 questions:
-Is the price reasonable?
-Do I need this item?
-Can I easily coordinate this item with other items in my closet?
-How many times will I use this item?
-Can I afford it?

3 simple rules:
1) Decide what you need
2) Feel, Look, Compare
3) Visit the stores often

3 Don'ts:
1) Do not buy anything that looks scruffy
2) Do not but anything that doesn't fit you 
3) Do not buy anything of inferior quality

Answer to the shirt question: The left shirt has the superior quality! :)

Hope you enjoyed this post
and I hope this will make you a more effective thrift shopper :)

With love /Mary Hazelbelle

Wednesday, 12 February 2014

Lolita sales and trades abbreviations EXPLAINED! Useful list for beginners :)



It took some time for me to noodle out all
the abbreviations used in the EGL forums and
on Facebook and so forth,
but here's a list for you! 

Selling/Buying
WTB = Want to buy
WTT = Want to trade
NWT = New With Tags
BNWT = Brand New With Tags
BNWOT = Brand New Without Tags
DS-DT = Direct Sale or Direct Trade
DS = Direct Sale
DT = Direct Trade
NWNT = Never Worn Never Traded
OBO = Or Best Offer
OBRO = Or Best Reasonable Offer

Clothes
JSK = Jumper skirt
OP = One Piece
OTKs = Over the knee socks

Brands
AP = Angelic Pretty
Btssb = Baby the Stars Shine Bright
AatP = Alice and the Pirates
JeJ = Juliette et Justine
MM = Mary Magdalene
MmM = Moi-meme-Moitie
Meta = Metamorphose temps de fille
GLW = Brand Gothic Lolita Wigs
VM = Victorian Maiden

If you are in Harajuku - Do like La Carmina and check out
Lolita Second Hand store Closet Child (also available on internet ;) 
Also check out this excellent guide to Lolita abbrevations!

Saturday, 1 February 2014

How to advance from a Lolita-newbie to a Lolita-apprentice... The Lolita advancing ritual.


Lolita can be an easy fashion-style, if you buy everything from ONE brand and ONE coordination in ONE colour straight from the rack :)

But this isn't the reality for a lot of Lolitas' out there!
The reality is that many of us choose to buy from different brands, indie-brands, vintage stores and DIY. Which leads to a wardrobe full of items that may or may not be easy to wear together.

As a newbie-Lolli, the instant crush on the fashion may lead to a lot of impulsive shopping.

This happened to me :) I have now, more than 6 months later, a huge wardrobe full of odd-matching items in various colours and patterns and styles :P Which makes coordination rather impossible!

So, in order to advance from a Lolli-Newbie to a Lolli-Apprentice,
I'm going to make the following Lolita advancing ritual that's applicable for any Lolita; Master, Apprentice or Newbie ;):
1) Make a cup of tea

2) Spread your entire wardrobe in your room. Hang outfits on your door, on your curtain-rod, spread out your accessories on the bed and line up your Lolita shoes on the floor.


3) Sit down in a comfy armchair and bring out your laptop.

4) Surf the web and save pictures of all the Lolita-coords you love (and would be likely to wear).
Lolita coordinate database
EGL Daily Lolita
5) Choose the top 25 of these pics.
Use perhaps pixlr to make a collage.

6) Now look at the coord-photos - pick out the 6 colours that always seem to pop up.

7) Make a note of these 6 colours - do they harmonise together? If not, make slight alterations and finally choose the 3 most basic colours. These colours will be the base foundation of your wardrobe. Leave the other 3 colours for accenting your base colours. Eventually you will end up with the Lolita colour-chart for your style! :) Ramble Rori has a great post about Colour coordinating your outfits.

8) Now look at the designs of the clothes in the picture coords that you love. Are they Sweet, Gothic or Classic? Are they frilly, lacy or more simple pin-tuck? Do you prefer JSK+blouse or OP? Are there a lot of boleros, capes or cardigans? Bows, Headdress, Flowers or Hats? Printed or Solid Socks? RHS, chunky heels or Classic Mary Janes? Etc, etc... If you are really into categorising (I love that ;) LOL) you can make a simple table of the items appearing in the coords on the pictures- simply look at each picture and mark for every coord what item appears:

Comme ça:
JSK - IIII
OP - II
Bolero - III
Hat - I
Tea Party Shoes - II
Classic Mary Janes - IIII
Flowers - II
Bows - IIIII II

In this way you can decipher exactly which items that occur most often in the coords you like.
(You can do the same thing with the colours!)

(Of course you can choose to have several parallel wardrobes going on - e.g. One Classic Brown/Rose/Ivory wardrobe + One Gothic Rococo Floral/Black/Ivory + One Sweet OTT pink/mint/sax. But be-aware that this will truly complicate shopping and will cost you a lot more! In the end, my opinion is that you'll get a nicer wardrobe if you build one at the time. So for instance, choose 2014 to be your Classic wardrobe-shopping year, 2015 to be your Gothic and 2016 to be your Sweet. This way you can build three wonderful wardrobes within three years (and not ending up with three half-good wardrobes and having to rob a bank!) F Yeah Lolita has an excellent post on how to create a Lolita Wardrobe.

9) Compare the designs of the clothes on the pictures, with the items of your wardrobe in front of you.

10) Sort your items in piles of "Matches my ideal Lolita style", "Does not match" and "Maybe".

11) Put out all the "Do not match"-items up for sale on EGL-comm-sales or Facebook-sales-groups :)

12) Coord the remaining items. 
(Leave the "Maybe"-pile for now, keep these items stored in your wardrobe for a rainy day, these are the items that you might regret if you sell them immediately. Re-evaluate them within a year: If you do not use them within 12 months, you're probably never going to use them - so sell them! If you have used them a lot, obviously just keep them :).

13) Ask yourself:
Which items are you missing in your wardrobe to make those amazing coords? (compare with your pictures!)

14) Make a SPECIFIC shopping list of the items you need.
With SPECIFIC, I mean really SPECIFIC - colour, length, design, brand, etc. So you don't get tempted to buy something "half-good" just because it's at a low price!

15) Pin this shopping list on your desktop (of your computer or your IRL desk or maybe both). Save your money and don't DARE to but anything else than the items on your list :)

Happy efficient shopping!
This will hopefully help you to spend money on better items and help you to reach another mastering level in Lolita.

So this is how I did:

My top 25 coordinates

Mostly coords from Fanny Rosie and Fancy Melody <3

Some of these coords aren't Lolita! But I really feel for them, so I'm inspired by them anyway.
I will probably forever style myself in the Limbo-land of Vintage and Lolita ^^ haha

Basically, it's skirt + chiffon blouse + grimoire tights + short jacket + lace-up booties

Most occuring clothing items:
Skirt
IW Book Bag
Lace Boots
Short Jacket
Grimoire Tights

The 3 most occuring colours:
Brown
Navy
Antique Pink

Accent colours:
Cream
Wine
Green

Style:
Classic Lolita

Fabrics:
Wool
Chiffon
Cotton with prints/paintings
Leather
Velvet
Corduroy (Manchester)

Fanny Rosie has made a great wardrobe post, and when I'm scanning through her items, I realise that these are the brands I like best:
Mary Magdalene
Juliette et Justine
Innocent World
Vintage

<3 I'm seriously in love with Fanny Rosies' shoe collection <3

So my shopping list for 2014 will be as follows: 
(Cold weather edition)
*drum whirl*

> A brown short jacket with a bow.
> Two simple wool Lolita skirts, Brown and Navy.
> Two chiffon lace blouses, Cream and Wine.
> Two hats to match the wool skirts, Brown and Navy.
> A bolero, Brown (preferably JeJ).
> An all-matching Bambi fur collar.
> A pair of classic, sturdy and walking friendly Oxford shoes in Brown leather.
> Grimoire tights, 2 pairs.
> Decorative flowers in my 6 colours
> Antique-looking jewellery
> IW Book Bag or something similar :)
> If I can afford it :) A special OP or JSK from a nice brand!

So, now I'm pinning this to my desktop and sticking to my well considered purchases :)
I could even make a budget for the following months, so I can plan to save money for EGL comm sales. (especially after Lucky Pack season! A lot of IW pieces ends up second hand :)

For better coords for all Lolitas!

Love /Mary Hazelbelle

Wednesday, 29 January 2014

The Lolita Bag essentials - Best Lolita tip!

I really want to share some great "Don't leave the house without these in your Lolita-bag" essentials from my wise Lolita friends Ida and Mimmi!

1) A mirror
2) A comb
3) A pair of scissors
4) Eyelash-glue
5) A small towel or table cloth to sit on
6) Wet tissues

1) A mirror
Oh, without a mirror you are doomed :)
You'll need to check if everything is in place at least once an hour...

2) A comb
To tame those wild bangs on your wig!

3) A pair of scissors
 Scissors are great! You don't want threads hanging from your precious JSK!

4) Eyelash-glue
Your eyelashes will probably at some point fall off. Then you want the glue!

5) A small towel or table cloth to sit on
Having a small table cloth or towel rolled up in your handbag is great when you want to protect your Lolita clothes, if you need to sit down!

6) Wet tissues and napkins


It's so nice to have some wet wipes and tissues with you if something happens... I know you think you'll never drop that piece of chocolate mud cake on your Shiro Lolita outfit... But when you do, you'll have wet wipes ready to minimise the damage!


Wednesday, 15 January 2014

Caring for your delicate Lolita clothes


This is from the Lolita Blog challenge in October, but I thought it was so good that it deserved it's own post! Thanks Ida for the tips <3.

When your clothes don't tolerate water, what do you do when it rains? Or if you get a stain?


Lolita's are very careful with their clothes. Before I even had bought my first Lolita outfit, my lovely friend Ida went through all the cautious steps I must take if I want to wear my beautiful outfits more than once:

1) Never wear Lolita directly to your skin. Always wear underwear, Ida recommended to sew a simple under dress (with short sleeves) in Egyptian cotton to wear closest to your body.
I bought a vintage under dress from Ebay.

2) Always shower before wearing Lolita and use an aluminium deodorant to stop perspiration before it soils your clothes!

3) Buy a small towel or table cloth that you always bring with you, if you have to sit down.

4) Get a big picnic mat if you are going to sit down in grass.

5) Sew a double (back and front) apron to your dress.

Hope you enjoyed this post!
Please leave a comment if you have more great
tips for caring for your Lolita clothes! :D

Saturday, 4 January 2014

Dealing with Net Haters

This is my number 100 blog-post :)
So, I'm starting to get known on the Internet, and I want to dedicate this post to something more serious, but very important.


As soon as you poke your head out, of course everyone is going to have something to say about it.

People can be very rude and unjust, and have very little empathy for your feelings.

This may happen within the community as well, I have heard about girls being poked at in Lolita or Gyaru or other Japanese substyle communities for "not looking the part", aka falling short from a very narrow cookie-cut shape that some ignorant person has decided.

You always have to remember that we have laws against harassing, sexual pressure, bullying or black-mailing - if you are subject to continuous net-hate, take screen-shots of the messages, gather evidence against the person who is harassing you and then GO TO THE POLICE. 
If you are bullied in school, talk to an adult that you trust - 'cause you do not have to take that!

If the harassing is non-specific, from people who you don't know personally and it is an occasional snide remark from someone anonymous, here are my best tips for dealing with it:


1) Acceptance.
This is actually a very important step. You have to realise that "haters gonna hate". 
You can't change them, there will always be some shallow prick out there on the Internet, just preying on the moment when he/she can tear someone elses' life apart. 

The only thing that you CAN change, is how YOU handle the situation.
Are you gonna let those rude comments seep in under your skin?
Are you going to take complete strangers words for true?
That's up to you.


2) Dealing with it.
Step 1: If you stumble across a rude comment, delete it straight away. Don't even finish reading it! (It really isn't worth it :) 
If you feel that the vibes are negative - just *click, click* and it's gone!
That way you don't have to get upset at all.

Step 2: If you accidentally read it - remember it's not actually for real ;) It's just some words on the Internet! How real is the Internet?
Can you touch it? No. 
IT'S NOT FOR REAL!!!
I mean, if you had met this dimwit person face to face,
they would probably never have said the things that they wrote to you.
So, this means that their little brain-diarrhoea on your wall is just that,
a diarrhoea 
- A nasty internet stomach-flu -
which if you're not careful - will contaminate you.

So remember, it isn't real:
They do not know who you truly are,
they do not understand how you react to their words,
they are not thinking carefully about what they are writing,
- this all means that it's just a stupid person writing stupid stuff
THAT DOES NOT APPLY TO THE REAL YOU!


3) Remembering all the good remarks and comments!
I know, one bad comment can ruin a hundred nice comments
- isn't that weird?
So I thought of a nice way to keep those beautiful comments at hand
when you feel upset because of a negative comment
- save them!
Print them out and make a scrap-book
or gather them in a binder.


I remember this great exercise we did at school:
Everyone had a piece of paper stuck to their back.

Now, we all walked around in the class room,
writing something nice about our classmate on their piece of paper.

Everyone wrote something on everyones' back.
Long or short, it didn't matter - just something that you liked about them.

When we all were finished,
we could take off the paper from our backs and read the nice comments...

This was so great!
I taped up the piece of paper on the inside of my locker door
and whenever I felt down or useless,
I just gave those kind words from all my friends,
my class-mates and frenemies a quick glance
- and it always made me remember that I am worth something :)
I am me.


You could do this exercise with your friends and family,
but I think it is important that you do it with actual people
that you meet in your actual life (IRL so to speak ;)
not people from the net.

'Cause your true friends and family can write down things
that really are you,
and I think those comments will stick around longer
than the shallow net comments,
like "nice hair" or "love your outfit"
- even though those comments are sweet,
they could apply to so many persons -

If you really want to know what YOU are worth,
get someone to say nice things that REALLY apply to YOU.


Don't forget ^^ Friendship IS magic! :D


Saturday, 30 November 2013

How to make a Lolita skirt in 15 minutes for under 10$! :)


Ok, so getting into Lolita fashion can be rather expensive :)

So, this is my best - dirt cheap - quick fix, Lolita tip:

Do It Yourself Lolita skirt
made from a thrift store curtain!
<3

What you need:
1) A good-looking curtain in the right skirt-length with a curtain rod pocket.
2) Elastic waist band, the length of your waist + 2 cm.

Voluntary:
(3) You actually don't need to use a sewing machine, 
you could sew it for hand if you wish too.
But of course, having a sewing machine makes things easier.
(4) You don't need a washing machine either - 
you can wash the fabric in your sink.


Step 1
Rummage thrift stores in hope of finding a curtain that looks something like this:


It has a perfect length and an adorable ruffle at the hem!
The print is floral, which is perfect for classic or country Lolita :)

Carefully examine the fabric, make sure that there are no holes or big stains
(that you can't fix ;)

Buy it! 
This one cost me 40 SEK ~ 6.2$

Step 2
Take the fabric home and care for it :)


This is what the fabric (curtain ;) looks like when unfolded :) 
It is totally 275 cm long.

On Sew Loli Livejournal, we have had discussions about good hem circumference, ranging from 2-3 x your waist measurement to 2,5-3 x your hip measurement. For instance, a friend of mine uses standard 150 cm x 2 (since it is the standard length of a bought piece of fabric on a roll). You could always measure the hem of your favourite dress, to see what hem measurements you prefer.

But for the sake of simplicity in this tutorial, I'm going to use the whole length.


Chuck it into the washing machine :)

It is always smarter to wash the fabric BEFORE you make your creation.
Partly because it is nicer to work with a clean fabric,
but also because adding lace etc. may make
the end product more difficult to wash!
Step 3
Sew the skirt! :D


Now, get yourself a piece of elastic waistband.
My piece is 80 cm (my waist measurement is 75 cm) and it cost me 22 SEK ~3.4$
Total: 6.2 + 3.4 = 9.6$ :D


Oh... ooops, I accidentally bought wrong size waistband :#) 
BEFORE buying elastic waistband, please measure the 
pocket where the curtain rod goes ;)
So that it fits ;)

Okeeeej... So I ended up with black elastic waistband 
(Luckily, I had a right-sized spare piece in my drawer ;)


It fits!!! Yäj! :D


So, now I'm taking a sturdy and big safety pin
and safely fastening it a bit in on
the elastic waist band.


Now, I thread the pin with the band into the 
curtain rod pocket.




OK, so now you see that it is inside! :D


I keep on pushing the fabric over the pin + band.


When the band ends, I safely secure the band to the fabric with (two!) needles, 
so I can keep on pushing the longer fabric over the shorter waist band as I go.


Victory! I'm through to the other side! :D


So now I fasten the two pieces of elastic waist band together.


And with a little machine-sewing, the two bands are firmly attached!
:D
Make sure that the bands haven't twisted before you sew them together ;)


So, I'm needling the two skirt ends together!


When you turn the skirt over, 
you can start too see 
what the end product will look like :D

 

So close! :D
Now on to the sewing machine :)


Here I'm sitting with my sewing machine.
You can see the elastic band inside the pocket.


It's somewhat tricky to sew the two pockets together without
sewing in the elastic band.
Use your magic skills here ;)


Tralala... Sewing it together :)


And Voilá!

The skirt is finished :)

In less than 15 minutes under 10$!


Country Lolita coord with skirt :)


Here are two other great links for basic skirt tutorials! :D

violet le beaux
fille de porcelaine

HUGZ/ Mary


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