Showing posts with label Vintage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vintage. Show all posts

Wednesday, 26 February 2014

Can you be a thrift store/ charity shop and D-I-Y Lolita and still be a "real" Lolita? A Lolita brand-analysis and debate.

A Lolita brand-analysis and debate.

Is it possible to be a Lolita, while only wearing items found at thrift stores/ charity shops and items that you have made yourself?
Is it possible to be a "real" Lolita without ever owning brand?
These questions are well worth thinking about!

What defines a "real" Lolita?

I love brand. 
Without Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Moi-même-Moitié and Angelic Pretty - Lolita had never been an alternative fashion style of the magnitude it is today.

These brands have had fashion shows, beautiful photo-shoots with wonderful models, they have had fan-contests, give-aways, tea-partys - all in the name of promoting Lolita. 


Aoki Misako, model for Btssb, Kera and the Gothic Lolita Bible, even became the ambassador of cuteness, to promote Lolita fashion and Kawaii to the rest of the world!

 The Lolita brands made it happen, they put the fashion world in spin.
They promoted their idea of fashion and made it accessible to us, Lolitas' outside of Japan.

Without brands, you could surely say, that you would probably never have dressed in Lolita.

So, in order to be a "real" Lolita - do you have to own brand items?

I would, even after my brand-loving introduction, still want to argue for "NO".

Yes, the Lolita-concept as an alternative fashion is promoted by brands and is dependant on brands to thrive. Brands dictate the rules, changing them with tiny steps, renewing and redefining Lolita - often unremarkably - as the seasons pass, in order to create new, beautiful products that we are willing to pay the price for.

Btssb A/W 2011 (c) Macarontea

I am forever thankful to the creative think-tanks in the brands design-teams, for creating such awestriking items. 

Yet, I feel as though this fashion should not only be for those who have grand monthly salaries or for those who have parents that are willing to pay 600 USD for a coord. That would be limiting the fashion, and it would back-lash upon the brands and the brand-loving-Lolita communities as well.

In order for Lolita to continue to exist, it must be more accessible! The fact that you nowadays can order brand online overseas (compared to a couple of years ago when you had to fly to Japan to get your dream items), is not the same as accessibility - because a lot of Lolita-lovers can't even afford to pay the import taxes of a brand dress!

To exclude Lolitas' that don't buy brand is pure Elitism
You should be honest to yourself and others if you consider the following: 

> A "real" Lolita always wear expensive "brand"-items <

If you agree with this statement, You are, by definition, an Elitist. 

You could even be a Lolita with no money to buy brand, and still you confine to the Lolita-brand-Elitism. You perhaps always feel inferior 'cause you are not wearing the "dream-items" from the latest EGL brand-update... You are a "Wanna-be". An elitist-groupie, that upholds the hierarchy and elitist movement "That only a "real" Lolita can afford Lolita brand".

Even if you argue that you should buy brand second-hand, if you're budget doesn't cover a new coord - this doesn't finance or support brands directly (maybe indirectly, because the seller will perhaps buy a new brand dress for the money). But it is still not financing the brand per se - thus buying brand second-hand is just the same as buying from indie-brands or making the outfits yourself.

To not accept creative D-I-Y minds, think-tanks of the home-sewing machine, teams of inspiring Lolitas', dreaming of uniquely printed JSKs, would really limit Lolita in a bad way!

Lolita is an alternative fashion style with a rather strict "uniform"/silhouette, but I want to argue that you do not require to buy brand to cohere to it.

The runes say "Odin, Sleipner, Lolita" ^^

And ask yourself - What do you really mean with "brand"?

What counts as a Lolita-brand for you?
Do you draw the line by defining it by country of origin - as a brand founded in Japan?
Do you define it by time - as being one of the founders of Lolita in the 1980s-90s?
Or do you define it by price tag?

However you choose to define it, it will still be a slippery-slope definition, and you will probably have to redefine your thoughts as years pass.

Because the fact is, Lolita is a-changing :) As long as Lolita stayed in Japan, it was an easier task to contain it. But as Lolita becomes more global, it is filtered through the fashion of the continents, through culture (and religion!). It is blending into mainstream fashion, merging with other alternative styles and forever living and thriving on the fantasy and creativity of the styles' wearer.
Lolita is dead. Long live Lolita!

Yes, you can very well still be Lolita, even though your entire wardrobe consists of hand-made items or up-cycled thrift store dresses.

Yes, you never have to own a single "brand" item to be Lolita, you do not even have to have it as a goal.

You can honour the founders of the style by purchasing their coords, but even if you do have the money to spend - Lolita is first and foremost a certain air of style, not a price tag. It's the idea of the perfect Victorian doll with a big scoop of Kawaii :) A state of mind that can't be bought by bucks!!!

Quality, however, can be bought by bucks :) And the brands do up-hold a certain quality (compared to knock-offs), but truth-be-told - if you want REAL quality - aka exclusive materials such as pure silk, real leather, hand embroidery - you have to buy from indie-brand, thrift vintage or D-I-Y... 

Hope you enjoyed this post (:
Please keep the discussion alive in the comments field!
Are you an elitist? Or just a wanna-be? ;)
Or are you a creative free-ranging Lolita?

Hugz /Mary

Saturday, 15 February 2014

How to shop in charity shops, thrift stores and garage sales! BIG GUIDE!

"A charity shopthrift shopthrift storehospice shop (U.S., Canada), resale shop (when not meaning consignment shop U.S.) or op shop(Australia/N.Z.) (from "opportunity shop") is a retail establishment run by a charitable organization to raise money." (Wikipedia)


Inspiring shop window at local Charity Shop :)

This is my guide to better shopping in thrift/ charity stores :)

I am myself a passionate charity store and garage sale shopper and I have made many adorable finds for pennies.
I adore Vintage, since a lot of the craftsmanship and sheer hard work put into Vintage clothing items has been lost due to the need of producing more clothes for less money.

My mum started taking me to Charity shops when I was 6, due to the fact that she was a student with little money to support two children, so in order to make the most of what we had, second hand clothing and items was a way to make the money stretch.
She taught me how to search effectively after items of interest, and also about fabrics, sewing and quality! Now, even though I have plenty of money, I still enjoy shopping in thrift stores, since the quality of Vintage items are so far superior to newly made (for a fraction of the price!).

Loppisfynd in Västerås is a huge attraction

In Sweden, shopping Second Hand items on auction, garage sale, thrift store and in the charity shop is a peoples movement! We call it "Loppis" -  Everyone does it, no matter if they are rich or poor. It's even rather trendy to own second hand - since it can stand for an expression of individuality and it is environmental-friendly. If you buy something in a charity shop, the money has an ethical dimension to it as well - since many charity shops are run by non-profit organisations that have welfare projects.

This guide is a concentrated fact sheet from more than 20 years of Second Hand-shopping experiences.
This post is a more general post, useful for everyone, and I'm in the process of writing a post about second-hand shopping that is more Lolita-specific! (I'll insert the link here when I've written it ;)

How do you shop effectively in thrift stores?
 Shopping in Charity Shops is an elegant sport :)
It is the ability to rummage and sieve effectively through heaps of garbage to find one or two items that you really like and need.
It is nothing like going to an ordinary store.

If you only ever been to ordinary clothing shops before, you will probably be baffled by the mass of odd-looking, battered items.

Don't be fooled :)
Actually, when you've learned the art of thrift store shopping, you will shop more effectively in boutique stores as well!

How is the Charity shop organised?
Well, this depends on the shop, of course. Some countries like Sweden and England have an amazing variety of thrift- and vintage stores, either run by profit-companies or charity organisations. The shops run by charity organisations tend to have the best prices, and the ability to do amazing finds. The profit-companies (boutique vintage stores) may have more of what you actually want, but to a larger cost.

Often however, since every item in a store is unique - most stores choose to display their items based on type of item (i.e. skirts) or on colour. In Sweden, Charity shops do display items according to season, meaning that it will be hard to find a winter coat in the middle of the summer. Some charity shops have occasional sales, where cheap items are sold for even less! :)

All coats 50% sales!

So how to do it!
For the Charity Shop-newbie: keep in mind that not only must you find something you like, you have to find it in your size as well!
Compared to a department store or boutique, where you are able to try different sizes of the same item, this is now not possible, since there is only one of every item!
Don't buy anything that doesn't fit you, unless you know for sure that you are willing to do the alterations. But even if the tag says it is not your size, and you like the item - try it on! ^^ You will be surprised how often the tag says one size, but the garment actually is another size!

So I use this simple 4 step procedure when shopping:

1) -> 2) -> 3) ->4)

1) Finding something you like
I am very methodological when I shop at charity shops. I look at EVERY item on the rack, briefly (colour, material, brand- and size-label), and if something catches my attention (it is the right colour, the right brand, the material is lovely, etc), I pick it out and look at it properly. If it didn't meet my expectations, I hang it back, but if I liked it I bring it along to "the mirror test" (step 2).
I usually end up with >20 items hanging on my arm (often rather heavy ;) when I'm done with the first screening.

2) The mirror test
My second step is to go to a mirror in the shop. I put the items in a pile next to me, than I hold up every item against the mirror and I see if it will fit, if the colour is OK against my skin, etc. The items that don't pass the mirror test, I hang back - and the items I like, I bring to the dressing room! (Step 3 :)

3) Do the clothes fit?
Now I'm in the dressing room, trying on every item. I look at the quality of the fabric, how much wear the item has, how the fabric feels against my skin, can I move properly in the item? I also look at the washing label and ask myself if I can take care of the item properly.

4) Last screening
Now I look on the pile of items that I have (maybe 3-5 pieces) and I ask myself the following 5 questions:

> Is the price reasonable? <
> Do I need this item? <
> Can I easily coordinate this item with other items in my closet? <
> How many times will I use this item? <
> Can I afford it? <

If the items past these questions, I buy it!!! :D

 I have made 3 simple rules and 3 DONT'S to keep in mind when shopping. 
I find them very handy:

1) Decide what you NEED
To plan ahead, much like going to the grocery store with a list, will keep you on the right course. If you need a sweater, you can concentrate on ONLY looking through the sweater section, instead of looking through the entire store, which is a great time-saver.

2) Materials, washing instructions, wear and tear matters!
 Get the know-how
Feel, Look, Compare!


Pure silk blouse that unfortunately has been mistreated by washing in to high temperature. You can feel the difference - silk should be soft at touch, but if you have mistreated the fabric, the item becomes stiff, like paper. Learn to know how pure silk feels!

...Feel...
When shopping, touch the material! Feel how it feels between you fingers - take time to learn how real silk feels, how new wool feels like - how you can differ between linen and cotton... Or how soft true Merino wool is!
(and read the labels. 5% Merino wool is NOT the same as 100% Merino :).
...Look... 
Look at the fabric! 
Is it all creased? Then it will probably stay creased unless you iron it after every washing - ask yourself if it is worth it!
Are there stains? Don't buy it (no matter how cheap it is ;). Unless you are absolutely sure that you can do something about it or you really don't care.
Look at the ends of the sleeves and/or hems! 
Is there significant wear? Don't buy it! There is no point in buying clothes that only will make you look scruffy!
 Especially for stretchy tops, look if there are a lot of pilling - again, it doesn't matter how "great" that sweater is - if it looks scruffy - you will look scruffy!
Now look at the washing instructions! Are you willing to take this item to the Laundry Service after every use? Or would you rather have an item that is more easy to care for?


...Compare...
What I like with charity store shopping is that you can directly compare the quality of the items in-store! If you shop from H&M it is hard to, in the store, tell the quality of the fabric - because everything looks the same... But in a thrift store, you can easily just bring out your sweater of choice and DIRECTLY compare it to inferior/superior quality items ON THE RACK :)
This will help you when choosing what item you will buy!

Can you guess which shirt has the better quality? ;)
Answer at the bottom of the page!

3) Visit the store often!
To visit the same store often gives you an advantage, because you will not miss the re-fills, sales and you will learn more what items are abundant and what items are sold more quickly.
If you are nice to the staff, maybe they can tell which days in the week they get refill-shipments :)

So with this said, remember these key DON'TS:
(and no rules without exceptions ;)

1) Do not buy anything that looks scruffy
UNLESS
you doubtlessly KNOW that you can do something about it.

2) Do not but anything that doesn't fit you
UNLESS
you are prepared to really put the time in to making alterings!

3) Do not buy anything of inferior quality
UNLESS
you are only going to wear them for a day for a masquerade or something similar :)

All in all, this is the 
TAKE HOME MESSAGE:

4 steps procedure when shopping:

1) Methodological search
2) Mirror test
3) Try the item in the dressing room
4) Answer truthfully these 5 questions:
-Is the price reasonable?
-Do I need this item?
-Can I easily coordinate this item with other items in my closet?
-How many times will I use this item?
-Can I afford it?

3 simple rules:
1) Decide what you need
2) Feel, Look, Compare
3) Visit the stores often

3 Don'ts:
1) Do not buy anything that looks scruffy
2) Do not but anything that doesn't fit you 
3) Do not buy anything of inferior quality

Answer to the shirt question: The left shirt has the superior quality! :)

Hope you enjoyed this post
and I hope this will make you a more effective thrift shopper :)

With love /Mary Hazelbelle

Wednesday, 8 January 2014

The prairie dress and pre-Lolita brands Gunne Sax, Laura Ashley and MILK. Know your roots!



Before I started wearing Lolita, I have always loved to rummage thrift stores in search of the perfect Vintage find :)

Vintage is very different from simple Second-hand clothing.
Vintage is exclusive brand or hand-made items in exceptional quality.
Materials are impeccable - silk, wool, good quality cotton - and often show no sign of wear, 
even though they have been around for more than 30-50 years!

So, naturally, I want to incorporate Vintage into my Lolita style, since I love the amazing
sewing and fabrics of Vintage clothing.

I call my substyle "Classic Vintage Lolita", to keep it simple ^^

For a Classic Vintage Lolita - several Vintage 1970's brands - spanning over three continents, are necessarily to know of:

Gunne Sax - USA
Laura Ashley - England
MILK - Japan

These three brands were heavily influenced by each other and together they created the romantic, modest and frilly looks of the decade.

And in time, they would inspire the Lolita designers to create todays' EGL Lolita Fashion!

Granny dresses
In the 1960's the brands made "Granny dresses" - what later came to be named the "Prairie dress" - after the break-through of the TV-show "Little house on the Prairie" in 1974.


But actually "Prairie fashion" had been coming and going in fashion since the original fashionistas' of the Ol' West (USA) wore the garments in the early 19th century.

First, in the depression year of 1932, Laura Ingalls Wilder released her first book of many in the "Little House" (...in the big Woods 1932, ...on the prairie 1935, etc). The tales where almost biographic, as Laura herself as a child, travelled through the USA in a covered prairie wagon.

Prairie fashion had a huge up-swing in the 1940's, since the Cowboy-culture became popular with several movies portraying an idyllic American spirit promised-land filled with good, hard working men and women and endless adventures.


Gail Davis

Gail Davis and Dale Evans where two American fashion icons of the Cowboy Culture!
Dale even had her own comic book :)


As the hippie-movement emerged in the late 1960's, searching for a more simple and "back-to-nature" style, the prairie dress became a natural element of the fashion.


Gunne Sax was founded in the 1960s in San Fransisco, and in 1969, Jessica McClintock invested in the brand and became the chief designer - creating the multimillion company it is today.


When the popular TV-show "Little House on the Prairie" aired in 1974, it was actually just reflecting the style that many girls and women already where wearing!


In Japan, a lot of fashion brands made the same kind of dresses: MILK (april 1970), Maggu, Mitsokoshi -creating the first Harajuku fashion scene and the - even now popular - Japanese fashion style "Natural Kei" (that later evolved to Mori Kei as well).


And in Europe, especially in England, Laura Ashley, was the designer to talk about!

All photos by Melanie Clegg



The three brands evolved during the 70s, bringing in Victorian and Edwardian influences to their clothes as well as a few medieval and renaissance-inspired dresses.


The Prairie dress interpreted in modern Lolita Fashion!


Of course, for Lolita fashion, the primary inspiration is the historical children dresses of the Victorian- and Edwardian eras. 

Yet, the secondary inspiration: the prairie dress movement of the 1970s,
is too obvious to ignore!

Modern Prairie dress.


Innocent World

Victorian Maiden




Classic and Country Lolita are the two sub-styles that mostly picks up the Romance of the 1970s vibe.

And of course it is possible to create beautiful Lolita outfits with vintage 1970s romantic fashion.
As long as you keep the key elements of Lolita in your outfit, 
and add a big scoop of Kawaii, you can create wonderful unique coords.

Hope you enjoyed this post :)
<3 Love from Mary Hazelbelle <3

References:

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