Showing posts with label hand made. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hand made. Show all posts

Wednesday, 26 February 2014

Can you be a thrift store/ charity shop and D-I-Y Lolita and still be a "real" Lolita? A Lolita brand-analysis and debate.

A Lolita brand-analysis and debate.

Is it possible to be a Lolita, while only wearing items found at thrift stores/ charity shops and items that you have made yourself?
Is it possible to be a "real" Lolita without ever owning brand?
These questions are well worth thinking about!

What defines a "real" Lolita?

I love brand. 
Without Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Moi-même-Moitié and Angelic Pretty - Lolita had never been an alternative fashion style of the magnitude it is today.

These brands have had fashion shows, beautiful photo-shoots with wonderful models, they have had fan-contests, give-aways, tea-partys - all in the name of promoting Lolita. 


Aoki Misako, model for Btssb, Kera and the Gothic Lolita Bible, even became the ambassador of cuteness, to promote Lolita fashion and Kawaii to the rest of the world!

 The Lolita brands made it happen, they put the fashion world in spin.
They promoted their idea of fashion and made it accessible to us, Lolitas' outside of Japan.

Without brands, you could surely say, that you would probably never have dressed in Lolita.

So, in order to be a "real" Lolita - do you have to own brand items?

I would, even after my brand-loving introduction, still want to argue for "NO".

Yes, the Lolita-concept as an alternative fashion is promoted by brands and is dependant on brands to thrive. Brands dictate the rules, changing them with tiny steps, renewing and redefining Lolita - often unremarkably - as the seasons pass, in order to create new, beautiful products that we are willing to pay the price for.

Btssb A/W 2011 (c) Macarontea

I am forever thankful to the creative think-tanks in the brands design-teams, for creating such awestriking items. 

Yet, I feel as though this fashion should not only be for those who have grand monthly salaries or for those who have parents that are willing to pay 600 USD for a coord. That would be limiting the fashion, and it would back-lash upon the brands and the brand-loving-Lolita communities as well.

In order for Lolita to continue to exist, it must be more accessible! The fact that you nowadays can order brand online overseas (compared to a couple of years ago when you had to fly to Japan to get your dream items), is not the same as accessibility - because a lot of Lolita-lovers can't even afford to pay the import taxes of a brand dress!

To exclude Lolitas' that don't buy brand is pure Elitism
You should be honest to yourself and others if you consider the following: 

> A "real" Lolita always wear expensive "brand"-items <

If you agree with this statement, You are, by definition, an Elitist. 

You could even be a Lolita with no money to buy brand, and still you confine to the Lolita-brand-Elitism. You perhaps always feel inferior 'cause you are not wearing the "dream-items" from the latest EGL brand-update... You are a "Wanna-be". An elitist-groupie, that upholds the hierarchy and elitist movement "That only a "real" Lolita can afford Lolita brand".

Even if you argue that you should buy brand second-hand, if you're budget doesn't cover a new coord - this doesn't finance or support brands directly (maybe indirectly, because the seller will perhaps buy a new brand dress for the money). But it is still not financing the brand per se - thus buying brand second-hand is just the same as buying from indie-brands or making the outfits yourself.

To not accept creative D-I-Y minds, think-tanks of the home-sewing machine, teams of inspiring Lolitas', dreaming of uniquely printed JSKs, would really limit Lolita in a bad way!

Lolita is an alternative fashion style with a rather strict "uniform"/silhouette, but I want to argue that you do not require to buy brand to cohere to it.

The runes say "Odin, Sleipner, Lolita" ^^

And ask yourself - What do you really mean with "brand"?

What counts as a Lolita-brand for you?
Do you draw the line by defining it by country of origin - as a brand founded in Japan?
Do you define it by time - as being one of the founders of Lolita in the 1980s-90s?
Or do you define it by price tag?

However you choose to define it, it will still be a slippery-slope definition, and you will probably have to redefine your thoughts as years pass.

Because the fact is, Lolita is a-changing :) As long as Lolita stayed in Japan, it was an easier task to contain it. But as Lolita becomes more global, it is filtered through the fashion of the continents, through culture (and religion!). It is blending into mainstream fashion, merging with other alternative styles and forever living and thriving on the fantasy and creativity of the styles' wearer.
Lolita is dead. Long live Lolita!

Yes, you can very well still be Lolita, even though your entire wardrobe consists of hand-made items or up-cycled thrift store dresses.

Yes, you never have to own a single "brand" item to be Lolita, you do not even have to have it as a goal.

You can honour the founders of the style by purchasing their coords, but even if you do have the money to spend - Lolita is first and foremost a certain air of style, not a price tag. It's the idea of the perfect Victorian doll with a big scoop of Kawaii :) A state of mind that can't be bought by bucks!!!

Quality, however, can be bought by bucks :) And the brands do up-hold a certain quality (compared to knock-offs), but truth-be-told - if you want REAL quality - aka exclusive materials such as pure silk, real leather, hand embroidery - you have to buy from indie-brand, thrift vintage or D-I-Y... 

Hope you enjoyed this post (:
Please keep the discussion alive in the comments field!
Are you an elitist? Or just a wanna-be? ;)
Or are you a creative free-ranging Lolita?

Hugz /Mary

Tuesday, 17 September 2013

Soft Lilac Lace on Etsy REVIEW! Handmade Lolita skirts

It is not without a heavy heart that I am writing this review.


Soft Lilac Lace on Etsy makes handmade Lolita clothes to what seems like amazing prices.
Jennifer and Jessie-Lee from Lowestoft in the UK has a good business concept.
Affordable, wearable, made after your measurements - Lolita clothes.

I fell for this dirt-cheap skirt, since I wanted a perfect everyday Lolita garment. 

Custom Made Plain Colour Pleated Bell-Shaped Lolita Skirt & Bow

Picture from Etsy
For £20 for the skirt + £6.50 for postage (total ca 275 SEK) that is amazing value.
There was several colour choices, I chose brown, and Soft Lilac Lace made the skirt after my measurements.

Good package
Cute note
Matching head bow, skirt bow, bracelet + free gift bracelet! :)
The skirt comes with a detachable bow, and I received 50% off on the head bow (only £3), + very cheap bracelet (£1)!

I ordered the skirt August 25th and received the skirt September 10th (total 3 weeks).
Which is very quick, considering the Taobao Lolita brands may take 1-3 months.

So, I REALLY do WANT to give Soft Lilac Lace five Hazelbelle nuts. But... I just can't and here is why:

Really bad zipper... This is just when I opened the parcel, I haven't even worn the skirt yet!
As you can see on the picture, the first thing that I notice with the skirt is that the zipper is really bad sewn on. I mean REALLY carelessly and unthoughtful "sewn" on. They might as well have used an office stapler. 

And the lack of quality simply continues...

Terrible seam
The seams in the skirt are awful. Sloppy made and simply put - lousy sewn.

WTF?!
Loose lace...
The cotton lace is of absolutely OK quality, and the colour match is perfect - but seriously?! WHY would you just sew ONE brown seam over white lace?! The perfect choice here would have been to sew two white seams, on top and bottom of the eyelet lace. 

Raw edges
All the edges of the cloth is raw, meaning Soft Lilac Lace has not zig-zagged or used overlock to seal the cloth. This is inferior quality, which will result in loose threads and eventually the seams will fall apart.

The skirt is of a good design and has a beautifully soft underskirt, which really is weird - since they choose good cloth, good lace, a good design and end up with this piece of junior school sew-mess...

I'm just going to say it: I could have done this so much better myself.

Obviously Soft Lilac Lace was in a hurry to put together this skirt. I know now, that if the price is "to good to be true" it probably isn't even worth it.

I'll have to finish of all the sewing myself (zig-zag raw edges, attach the zipper properly, detach the eyelet lace and sew it back on with better seams) and it is going to take time... :(


There is nothing wrong with the design, just terrible achievement and commitment to sewing :(

Skirt with Dear Celine Marshmallow Petticoat
Pretty but terribly made.

It is totally unacceptable to send a half-made skirt to a customer, when you promise something else. I am going to have to do a lot of extra work on this skirt, just to make it wearable (so the zipper doesn't fall off during a meet :(.

I'm very sad, because it feels like Soft Lilac Lace could have done this SOOOO much better. I would rather have waited a month more to get a diligently sewn skirt than this poor executed heap of threads.


2 out of 5 Hazelbelle nuts, if the skirt had been sewn properly it would have received 5/5.

Review:
Did the items match the pictures on Etsy? 2/5 No. The low quality was not perceived through Etsys pictures.
Where the items of good quality? 2/5 Poor seems, carelessly made. Good quality cotton and lace. Great with a magically soft underskirt.
How was the sellers communication? 5/5 Very good.
Cost versus quality? 1/5 Terrible!
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